After I changed my plans to spend the last weeks on the Philippines in the direction of Malaysia , I made my destination a little bit more exactly and decided to travel around Borneo. Borneo is the third-biggest island of the world. The biggest part belongs to Indonesia. I would travel around the Malaysian provinces of Sarawak and Sabah, just as the sultanate Brunei which lies between both provinces. Quite soon I found out again, that four weeks are not enough. There is simply too much to act and to look here. So I have pecked out some of the highlights and have put together a "program". In the meantime, I would actually be fit, to put together individual travel stones for a tour operator. Hey, somebody maybe knows a job in this area;-)?
Starting point was Kuching. The capital of Sarawak. At first I was deeply impressed, how clean here everything is. O.k. of course in comparison to the other lands which I had travelled around in South-east-Asia. Thailand was indescribably clean already to Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and Myanmar (the others which only travel around Thailand and come directly from Europe see it probably a little bit differently). But here I had the impression that the standard is even higher and everything is even more cleanly. I put myself in a supercosy baking packer-Hostel in a dorm. Because I am on the move by myself again, this kind of lodgings, which are not necessarily to be found in remaining south east-Asia, are ideally for me. One comes therefore again fast to contact with other travellers. I went to the Bako National park to walk there in the rainforest. 6 hours I was walking there. It was hot, hot damn. Already after few metres I was totally soaked. Who about wants to know now , how hot the whole is, that simply presents himself to walk for 6 hours in the sauna. Pure Temperature-technically and Aerial dampness-technical it might not probably be a lot around. But I have enjoyed it. Since weeks I was alone for the first time again completely for myself. No one round me. A feeling that I almost didn't know already any more. I had therefore a lot of time and leisure to think about many things. I reached a beach which was deserted and which I only completely had for myself. Then by the end of the trail I had a not so pleasant meeting with a horde monkeys. Strictly speaking these were longtail maquaes. The herd leader simply did not want to let me pass. And given me this clearly to understand. He was standing with a threatening gesture before me (bared teeth) dung - to me the heart has slided in this situation really in my pants. Indeed, they are not quite big, these monkeys, but in view of the fact that they can open drink cans just like that with her teeth let me arouse not exactly enthusiasm. I moved back me (and has signalled to him unfortunately with the fact that I have funk before him), armed with a piece of wood and have been waitin.After a while he left. But I was sure that this creep observes me still from somewhere. The next morning then I had the next meeting with him: In the simple lodging of the national park he has opened to himself in the neighbouring room simply the window (shortly before the horde already in the "kitchen" had looted themselves to the fridge) and had looked around there. The girl who lived in the room , she was just not in it, shout when she discovered the uninvited guest. I have woken up of it, came out, has asked what was wrong and at that moment this monster was jumping out from the window and run like crazy in my direction.races off like disturbed on me. I run as quick as possible back in my room and slammed the door. Meantime the rest of the horde was also on my window and tried to open this. I could only wait, until they will go. One week later I heard another story from the Bako National park which allowed to realise me once again,that it just no zoo - it is real wildlife. A couple became an eyewitness during their trek, when a python was eating a monkey (it was a proboscis monkey ).
I had decided to give the traditional Longhouses a visit. In the inland of Sarawak on the Batang Rejang river some of these longhouses are still exist. The old longhouses are built on stilts and up to 200 people live in such house. There is a communal part from which the single partial leave. Togetherness and community is still a big thing therea. On the way to Belaga I am the only tourist. At first it is the nightbus which is really cold and then the same play on the boat. The Malay people love Aircon. But it look like, that they don’t know, how to control it. Wrapped up in my jacket and my sarong, I try to resist the cold. Funnily, always everybody thinks, only because I come from Germany, I can stand the cold. An absolute fallacy, we know (in the end, I am known as to be chilled through). In the little town I find Daniel, a guy who organizes stays in longhouses. But the next day, we went first to the local school. The kids are glad about the change. Daniel suggests, that I should teach the kids for little while and tell them things about Germany. Of course, I was totally unprepared. But fortunately I found a few things I could talk about my country.
In a small boat it goes on the river to my first Longhouse. The people are really friendly, only a few are able to speak in English. But, besides, I have Daniel (has grown up itself also in longhouse) which translates. All kinds of things are offered to me. As for example ricewine. The name wine is plentiful understated. No notion how much percent of this stuff had. And to drink this during they day - puuuh….. With the selfrotated cigar ( I guess it should have been a cigarette, bute actually, in my opinion it looked more then a cigar) I wanted to decline. Then Daniel has given me to understand,that it is not a good idea.O.k., so I inhaled a few times. However, it was not really tasty. Then for the lunch wild boar was served to me, steamed in a bamboostick.Unfortunately, the meat existed more or less only of fat and was not so completely after my taste. But the side dishes have been tasty. The longhouse people (by the way, Sekapan Piit-Tribe) did not want to let me go at all and would like to stay me overnight with them. But Daniel had organized already my overnight stay in another longhouse. This time with the tribe of the Kayan. He took me there and then I was by myself. In the longhouse a few days before, somebody passed away. The coffin was put up on the way and the people sat partly around it. I had mixed feelings about my stay. Burial ceremonies are not necessarily that what you just would like to be present. Daniel had organized my guest's presents (alcohol and money for the relatives of the dead). The grief in the longhouse was an absolutely new experience for me. The mourner themselves were marked with white material. Either in form of a white cloth which they worn, or a white headband. However, not only the funereal colour differs from the uses of the western world with burials. A woman fell once in lamentations (I was explained with the fact that she regrets not the death of the members, but she remembered the past). The children played and raved around, the men sawed out the decoration for the grave beside the coffin. A whole week the coffin would be laid out, before it comes to the burial. For the next days many guests were expected and thus the women baked a traditional kind of cake. I could help them. Then in the evening there was big common food. This time deer and a scale animal (ant eater) is served to me. Both was tasty. The snake who had been shot was not been prepared already – my luck. Some of the men was starting to drink quite a lot. A younger started to make a pass on me. Everybody could see his behavior. But nobody found this strange. But a sort of private sphere hardly exist in a longhouse.I had some trouble to get rid of my "admirer" again. (then at night, unfortunately, he stood beside my sleeping groundand wanted to lie down besides - then, however, I was against it). Ginseng schnapps was offered to me (as turned out, this was one of my guest's presents) uuuuuaaaaaah - what execrable stuff. And then still bethelnut! I do not believe it. This stuff that I so revolting found in Myanmar. But the deceny at least dispose to act so as if. O.k man - the nut was really hard. I pushed it in my pouch and more or less only chewed on the leave. Has tasted about in a way, as if I would eat garden sorrel. Then I have said goodbye sometime, to go to bed (really I have slept on the ground) . The community was probably expecting to celebrate with them the hole night. But I could not. The next morning Daniel picked me up again and we went on the speed boat further upstream. Here just a dam is built and so some thousand people were already evacuated there. In the nearness live the Penan people. They live very much, very simply. Their huts exist, actually, only of a shelter. This time as a guest's present we bring noodle soups, because the Penan are hunter and collecto. Indeed, there is not just a lot to collect at the moment.. In addition, the kids are glad again about my balloons. And my blond hair seems to fascinate over and over again. The gigantic ear holes (they are huuuuuge) and the tattoos of the people are fascinating me.
On the same day I say goodbye to Daniel and I spend still a next night in a Longhouse which is substantially more modern, however. Here there is television, stereos, etc., however, the sanitary arrangements are still simple. As usual for South-East Asia, the squatting toilets. Then the more modern variation still has the shower, besides - which is used instead of the toilet paper. This very needs getting used to, by the way, and needs the training not to hose down yourself completely. I reach Miri and have, in the meantime, mega a big cold. The Aircons just show her effect. Besides, from Germany I received bad news from friends, which pulls me quite down.Many of my feelings and recollections of Iglos search and death come back and I feel as if it had been only a short time ago. I feel so helpless, because I cannot help - I am so far away. Everything what I can dt, is a phone call. Because I am on the move by myself, I have nobody with whom I can talk about the situation. I feel quite wretched and a conversation on the phone with my family helps me.
The next day I decide to take part on a tour to the Niah Caves,to come on other thoughts. On this occasion, it concerns one of the biggest caves of the world. In addition, in 1958 Archaeologies have found out, that 40,000 yeas ago human life existed here.The caves are also known for the bird nests. A Chinese specialty . To collect the nest, the collectors have to climb on thin poles – quite high above. But when we were there, was just no nest season. I spend two nights in the sultanate Brunei. Oil and money, these both things stand for Brunei. Because the land is subjected to the Islamic law, there is a absolute alcohol ban. What gives to report otherwise about it? I was only in the capital, have seen there the big mosque, have driven past a hotel that boasts to have " 6 stars ". (Has even 1.1 billions dollar cost to build it.) I have not seen the palace . It has 1788 rooms and 200 toilets!!! We were apparently in the whole city only 6 tourists and so we bumped over and over into each other. We knew ourselves from Miri, everybody had taken part in the cave tour. And also in Kota Kinabalu, my next approach point, we met ourselves again on the way. Here I organize my ascent of the Mount Kinabalu. It is necessary to organize the overnight stay in one of the huts before. Unfortunately, tour groups book too much and thus it is mostly booked up. Indeed, mostly they are cancellations. In the eve of the ascent there is a briefing and a group of people meets to divide a leader (better said, the costs for it). A part of the group already knows itself, they worked together as volunteers on the Philippines (www.hodr.org). They initiate me into the Travel gulf Score play. You count the lands in those you has travelled (condition is, that you had to stay at least 24 hours there and must have left the airport). Then the number of the lands are subtracted by the age. I had achieved the best result with wide. What I would not really have thought. In the meantime, I can serve 40 lands. I hope for more….
The next morning the ascent of the Mount Kinabalu can begin. With 4,095.2 metres it is the highest mountain of South-East Asia. We begin on the Timpohon Gate at 1866 metres . Up to Laban Rata Hut (on 3,272 metres) are about 2500 "steps" which expect us. The last 1.5 hours we walk in the rain. At least Susie and I. We both have, fortunately, the equally (slow) tempo. In the afternoon we recover in the hut. We are in worry, because it is still raining. Nobody has desire to mount the summit with rain. It is clearing up a bit for the sunset and in addition we can enjoy a beautiful double rainbow. At about 7.30 pm we go to bed. We are quite excited , it is raining again, and nobody can sleep immediately. Around 2.15 a.m.we get up. The first groups have already started to climb. We ourselves start about 2.50. It is cold. Just 9 degrees. So we wear all gloves and caps. Everybody finds his own tempo. You have to walk for quite a while on a rope. Sometimes you use it to pull up yourself. Oh yes, it is dark of course. Everybody has his own head lamp. I was not sure whether I found this great. But as with the night diving, one concentrates only upon the essentials.I really enjoyed it. Probably it was quite good that I have not seen where I have walked. Otherwise, probably I would have lost the motivation if I had seen as precipitously it was and above all still as far. Mounting almost already had what meditative for me. I found absolutely nicely. Some one could not find his rhythm and rushed for a few metres, then again exhausted and took a break for a while.
Then shortly after sunrise I stood on Low’s Point on 4,095.2 metres and was really happy. I was not the only one who could divide this feeling of happiness during this day. All together these were probably 120 others. We stayed only briefly at the summit to do a few pictures. Nevertheless, it was a little bit fresh. Then with the descent I could enjoy in the warmth of the sun the view. I was over the clouds. Now, however, still the descent approached. As usual in the Mount Kinabalu, it started to rain again in the late morning and thus we walked the last 2 hours again in the rain. Many people had, above all, with the descent her difficulties. Cramps and problems with the knees. Then in the gate we marvelled at at the times of the quickest mountain runners over again. Every year a mountain race is taking place. Also we had met 2 who had trained for it. Really crazy. But the true winners are the porters for me, above all, the women who climb up daily to the hut to deliver different things.In the same evening we went to Poring to the hot springs to do to our tired limbs a good thing. The next morning everybody had thus his difficulties with the walking. Pure muscle pains. This should not stop for some days. Then I allowed myself one more recreational day on a small island, before I got on the way to Sepilok. Here there is one of four rehabilitation centres worldwide. In this station it is tried, to return the Orang Utans (which are only exist in Malaysia and Indonesia) Partly it concerns orphan animals or the animals who were released from captivity. Twice daily a feeding takes place, and a few animals, who are already live in the wils, come back to get a free meal. I was so inspired by these big "oranges" that I was 4 times at the feeding time there. The next nature experience waited for me in form of a jungle camp. In the Kinabatangan river there is this simple lodging. A lof of logging was taking place in this area and so a lot of the wild life concentrates on a small space.
Thus we have seen> hornbills, eagles, Proboscis monkeys (unfortunately, too far away to do a good picture with the Digicam) Orang Utans this time in the wild, gibbon, Kingfisher, crocodiles, Monetolizard, Milipeds, spiders, frogs, scorpions, and, and and. We were at the morning and dusk time on the river. And to see around many smaller things, we went for the night time into the jungle. . The knowledge of the leaders was amazing good. Oh , I have not mentioned yet, that there were also many, many mosquitoes. We sprayed ourselves a lot with insect repellent. At certain body places, however not, because they are covered always with clothes. Just not always. There are situations in which one is put out to these beasts > in the toilet. Unfortunately these stings seem to stay with me forever. My bum looks as if I had the measles (probably the German measles ;-) ) My last stop in Borneo is Semporna. Here 3 days of diving are waiting for me. My return flight to Kuala Lumpur is already booked. Was probably better in such a way. Otherwise it would have been dangerous to stuck there for a while. What does make Semporna so especially? The place itself does not have to offer a lot. But one boat hour away there is one of the best diving spots of the world. Sipadan! In 2001 it got in the headlines, as criminals from the Philippines kidnapped tourists out of this island . In the meantime, it is not allowed any more to stay overnight anymore on the island. Indeed rather although of the fact to protect the occurrence of the turtles.In the meantime, the number of the divers who are allowed in this area are stricted to about 120 daily. Advance booking is necessary here. And what does you see in the underwater world of Sipadan? It is known for the big drop offs. . The drop offs which go directly from the shallow water for 600 metres or 2000 metres. At this one I felt during the descent like skydiving. That was f……. great. !!!!Besides there are countless sharks and turtles. Then there are a few more other islands in the area in which you can do makrodives.So you can see all this little things. Among the rest, Frogfish, Scorpionfish, Seahorses and my beloved Nudibranches. The diving was properly relaxed and we had virtually no current. Mostly it was a whole hour which we were under water. Sometimes I had 1 hour the fat wide grin in the face because so much beauty was to be seen. To me becomes conscious again what I have for a luck to be able to do travelling and to be able to see all these things. However, to me becomes conscious also quite badly that this has very soon an end. A feeling that fulfils not necessarily me just with big joy. I cannot say that I feel a sort of homesickness. I have considered whether there is something that I miss. Family and friends, firstly. Afterwards the lakes and mountains. Then all other things are more or less culinary. Among the rest, I am glad about a really good
A brezel with butter, of course cheese sparrows (they are already ordered), Pasta with Sauerkraut, bun dumpling, strawberries with curd, liver cheese (that is a really strange translation, cause actually is gladly not made of liver) with potato salad (made by Mom with the cucumbers), a Kaba (the german version of a milo) (in general milk), apple-sparkling-water- mix, and a "Russian"( wheat beer mixed with Sprite). However, above all, these are real bread and cheese what I have missed mostly. If I read this, it looks really in such a way as if, nevertheless, I am a real a Allgaeuerin (all this things are more or less specialty of my area) ;-), however, no fear, a tasty chilli with a well-arranged Guacamole will stand also on the menu. I will remain loyal to the international kitchen.
In Kuala Lumpur I have still done a little sightseeing, before I then done my last (this I will not miss ) nightbus to the north east of Malaysia. One of the Perhentian islands are my last purpose. Here I want to recover. The last months were stressful. Yes, I know, all non-traveller cannot fancy. But travelling is a stress. Here so I still wanted to be on holiday some days. Only my beloved hammock and a book. Indeed, I had the divingblues again (and it was soooo incredibly cheap here), so that I could not resist. Have seen many nice things again. Among the rest, two wrecks. I didn’t like the Titan Triggefish which are exist a lot here (as well on Sipadan. Say one to me once again, sharks are dangerous! These beasts( the Triggers) are attacking divers! The sign for Triggerfischer lets to shoot up the adrenalin under water quite high. One of our group was also attacked> a bite in the fin is a nice "souvenir". And then we had a Travelly which was apparently schizophrenic and meant to play Trigger. Suddenly it was beside me, completely, quite near and came toclose to me for my taste. I tried to kick him away. Then he checked another diver, before he was coming back to me. After a while he left.
Between the dives I could enjoy countlessly many Mangoshakes. Besides I visited the Long Beach on the other island side. However, there it was definitv.too hectic for me. 8 yaers ago I had spent with Iglo our last days after our Australia trip there. However, I could not recognize anything here again. And now I was also on this trip at the same place to conclude it solemnly.
On Coral Bay Beach everybody knew each other. The people in the diving shop were really nice (inclusive Abu the monkey) and also the travellers. I was definitive in nice society. On the last evening a ampfire was organized. Should I really take the boat tomorrow? Or should I simply change my plans? But finally I started my way back to Bangkok. By airplane (thanks to Airasia it is really cheap ). I had planned originally the night train through Thailand. Unfortunately, there are again increased riots and bomb attacks in the southeast of Thailand. I rather wanted to risk nothing during my last travel day. Now I am in Bangkok. Download photos again and type here my lines. Beside I go shopping again – of course. And tonight my flight is leaving. And tomorrow Germany will see me again.
How fast the last 1.5 years have passed. I experienced such a lot of things.
The next lines would be dedicated to all my fellow-travellers.
There were so many nice moments which we have shared together, quite a lot of amusing things and every now and then also sometimes a tear.
Without you my trip would not have been the same.
Thank you to everybody which has taken me so warmly in his home .
Those which have written to me so faithfully and let me know about that they have not forgotten me, a big thanks as well.
Now to all those, which have not realized up to the end, that I was also was reachable on the mobile phone>
you can reach me temporarily at this number in Germany: 0049-(0)176/29785514
At last I would spent the greatest THANK YOU at this point to my mom and my sister. Without their help it would be , once again , for me not been possible to travel.
You have kept the back free for me with so many things at home, have supplied me with info, have rebuilt me if it went badly for me.
A journey is a drink from the spring of life.
Christian Friedrich Hebbel